SANTIAGO, Chile – As he does during
every papal visit, Pope Francis produced plenty of surprises in Chile:
He married a couple during a flight, stopped his motorcade to help a
fallen police officer and wept with victims of sex abuse by priests.
But the pope also faced protests and a level of
hostility unheard of in modern times for a papal visit. Anti-pope
protests had to be broken up with tear gas, attackers burned at least 11
Roman Catholic Churches and pamphlets were found threatening Francis
that the "next bomb would be in your cassock."
"This kind of violence during a papal visit is
absolutely unprecedented. And Chile is historically a very solidly
Catholic nation," said Andrew Chesnut, the Catholic Studies chair at
Virginia Commonwealth University.
It remains to be seen whether the friction in Chile was a fluke or a harbinger of what to expect in future papal trips.
The neighboring country of Peru, where Francis went
Thursday, isn't taking any chances. Authorities have banned
demonstrations because they "impact the image of the country," police
spokeswoman Veronica Marquez said.
Papal visits sometimes attract demonstrations. In 2010,
thousands in London protested the visit of Pope Benedict XVI,
condemning his stance on condoms, women's rights and homosexuality,
among other things. But the ferocity and firebombing of churches in
Chile went beyond anything in modern memory.
"These violent acts may be a first in the history of
the 'traveling papacy,'" said Massimo Faggioli, a theology professor at
Villanova University in Philadelphia. "It is striking also because Latin
America is supposed to be friendly territory for Francis" — the first
pope from the region.
Chile has changed radically, from its economy to
politics, in less than a generation. Those changes, combined with a
pedophile priest scandal and what many argue was a bungled response by
the church, has accelerated a move away from Catholicism. Last year, 45
percent of Chileans identified as Catholic, a sharp drop in just a
decade from the mid-60s, according to Latinobarometro's annual poll.
One of the pope's sharply contested decisions — to
appoint a Chilean bishop with close ties to the country's most notorious
pedophile priest — soured many on the visit before it even began.
A few days before Francis arrived, a group angry about
the cost of the papal visit briefly occupied the Nunciature in Santiago
where the pope would sleep.
The same day, several churches were burned. Over the
next couple of days during the pope's visit, several more churches were
torched, along with three helicopters.
It was unclear who was behind the arson attacks.
Outside some of the churches, pamphlets were found supporting the cause
of indigenous Mapuche. Pamphlets outside one threatened the pope.
The Mapuche, Chile's largest indigenous group, are
fighting for a return of ancestral lands, recognition of their language
and an end to discrimination.
Much of Francis' trip was dedicated to the conflict.
During his homily Wednesday in the heart of Mapuche territory, he took
both the Mapuche and Chilean officials to task, calling for a halt to
violence and for government engagement that goes beyond just "elegant"
agreements.
The burning of churches is a tactic frequently employed
by radical Mapuche groups: Nearly two dozen have been firebombed the
last two years. That 11 were then attacked in just a few days is a
possible sign that these groups saw the visit as an opportunity to bring
more attention to their cause.
"The burning of churches is an expression of the
disgruntlement" that many Mapuche feel for the Catholic Church, said
German Silva, a political analyst at the Universidad Mayor in Santiago.
During Chile's 1973-1990 dictatorship, several bishops
spoke out in defense of human rights and worked closely with indigenous
populations. Today's bishops are much less visible, arguably less
hands-on with the poor and in general the church has nowhere near the
same moral authority.
Other groups protested the pope himself. While Francis
celebrated Mass on Tuesday at a large park in Santiago, riot police shot
tear gas and arrested dozens of protesters as they tried to march on
the service.
Protesters included members of the country's LGBT
community, socialists and people angry at the church's reaction to the
sex abuse scandal that many Chileans don't feel has been resolved.
"There will be no peace for an accomplice who helps and protects a rapist," read one sign.
"Burn, Daddy!" read another.
Hours before Francis left Chile, he made comments that
all but overshadowed his entire visit, and certainly would have added to
the protests if they had come sooner. When asked why he defended Bishop
Juan Barros, the former protege of the pedophile priest, Francis said
there was no proof Barros knew about the abuse and called those
accusations against him slanderous.
"After saying those things, if he came back here his
reception would be even worse," said Erivano Luna, a computer technician
in Santiago.